Well, the guitar presents well at first glance. But here's the warning, if you buy anything that requires some craft or skill that was made in China expect to be disappointed. It seems as though that there isn't anyone in China that can build anything properly. Sure, we send machines there that can build stuff and pay someone 20 cents a day to push a button and we end up with a usable product. But if we ask the button pusher to assess or modify the item that comes out of the machine we are in serious trouble. I will never buy a Chinese made item again that has required any skill to produce. This wasn't the first time that I've had to repair the work of a china-man (about the 20th), I am hoping it will be the last (but, I said that last time). The finished product is still defective but without close inspection it plays as well as $1000+ guitar with one days work put into it.
It all started early in the morning when I decided to set the OLP MUSICMAN COPY 'up'. The neck was very bowed so I started tightening up the truss rod. Here's where it all started. Fully tightened I had a 4mm bow. I removed the neck and placed a 2mm washer between the neck butt and the nylon washer, in hindsight it would have been better to put a 3mm thick washer in there so that the OLP truss rod would have a bit extra in it.
During the process detailed above I found the most disturbing thing in a commercially produced instrument that I have ever seen. The routed cavity for the neck was a mess. Someone needs to inform the country of China that chunky splintered wood and paint over run does not constitute a satisfactory seat for a guitar neck. I almost cried. I never understood comments about 'built with love', and the 'essence of an instrument' until I saw the result of all of that being ripped away by some halfwit.
I set to work building a support for my router so that I could, with some care, re-rout the cavity. 4 hours later I had my bench set-up and ready to go. It took me about an hour of shaving about a half a millimeter at a time before I had a surface that I was happy to bolt a neck to. Thankfully I only needed to place two pieces of electrical tape on the back of the body to do my final pass to get the correct neck angle. I cleaned up the work very carefully with a sharp chisel and a box knife. It isn't perfect but it is as good as this guitar as it is going to get. There are still two chunks that are too deep too rout down to. Still, there is about 90% of a flat face to bolt to. And bonus! - no shimming required.
After this I went back to where I started, I reassembled, tightened the trust rod and got to flat surface with no turns to spare. Set the action (easy now with the alteration to the neck cavity),then set the intonation, which is I found to be almost at full extension of the saddles. I then plugged this thing into my Hartke and had to call all the family members to the music room. What a beast! Absolutely awesome! It feels great and the sound 'just bounces'! It has a quick bass punch with smooth highs. The OLP will sustain for 30 or more seconds at a usable level and goes on for a minute afterward. There are very limited sympathetic rings and a full range bouncy sound with warmth that I am yet to experience in a bass under $1000.
The disappointment occurred when I leaned the guitar against a wall and saw that the neck had been bolted on at that factory with a 1 or 2 degree angle towards the high end. I could fix this but on closer inspection I would have to rotate the neck cavity as I have about an 8mm gap at the 12th fret from the edge of the fret board at the E string and about 2mm at the G.
So, the results are as follows:
I have a $300 bass that sounds like one of over $1000.
I lost one day of playing Grand Theft Auto to achieve this.
I built myself a router bed that I'll probably never use again, or at least I hope.
My OLP bass has had some love put in it, no blood though on this rebuild.

My advice to Ernie Ball:
Don't license to anyone building crap in China, it makes you look like money grabbing assholes.
If you license to anyone, make sure that you actually check what you are licensing, periodically at least.

My advice to China:
Give it up, your overpriced crap is playing on our nerves.
You do know that we can actually manufacture half the stuff you do at a cheaper wholesale price in our own countries!
BTW. it is unfortunate that you waste such good wood on substandard manufacturing attempts.

My advice to unemployed people around the world:
You know what? We can actually manufacture Chinese crap in our countries for less then what china is trying to charge us.

This was going to be an update to the FAQ page but thought that it would make a good post.
In my experience audible acoustic vibration on a Bass Guitar is almost always due to two things. The most common is Machine head vibration, the other will be an over loosened truss rod. The fender style machine head is constructed in a way that if the 'butterfly' part can become loose without falling apart. I have one bass with this issue and really the only real fix is to replace the head. I've tried rubber bands, sticky-tape, bits of paper and nothing has worked well enough. So, let's fix the thing properly right now!
For the purpose of this post I'm going to go to a little more effort.
Here is an image of the offending part. You can see the remnants of sticky-tap on it.


My first repair attempt was to use a vise grip to apply an incredible amount of pressure in attempt to reduce the movement of the part and stop the vibration. This made a difference but didn't fix the problem completely.


Next, I scuffed up the surface with some sand paper and prepared to solder the two parts together. A heavy duty soldering iron can help here. A little low wattage one is not going to get the surfaces hot enough.
The basics of this operation are that you need to get the surface of the 'job' hot enough to melt the solder.
In the first image here you can see that I've pretty much got the repair done but the solder is a little bubbled and I wasn't confident that repair would hold so I've added heat again, and a bit more solder and completed the job with a bit more patience. When you're finished the solder should shine and not be raised like a bubble.


This should have the job complete. If there is still vibration coming from the part and you can tell by touching it while playing a note, replace the machine head completely.